Subotica: Being an observer and being observed at the same time

 "It's hard to pick up your misfortune in heights. To be an observer and to be observed at the same time," said Danilo Kiš, whom is one of the most important ambassadors of ex-Yugoslav literature on the world stage. Why Kiš is important to us in this story? His life began in the city abouth which we will say the most , and he physically ends up in another town where he was buried, linked to the beginning of this story.

If you ever wanted to go to Belgrade without anyone knowing the city and the bus stations, and you do not like adventure - give up. It's a real challenge. For someone who first crossed the bus station in Belgrade and does not take advise from the miracles of technology, where to go, you can easily be disoriented and confused. The bus leaves you at the incoming station, and if you want to leave from Belgrade, you have to look for the outgoing station. If you are a pioneer in visiting Belgrade, it is not easy to find a place where you can hear the words "Good bye", "Au revior" or "Goodbye.

When you board the outgoing "ship" and in dilemma you go where to go further?

Go to the north. Travel to the north and do not forget to let your eyes wander around the Vojvodinas plains and expanse. Just go north until you reach the edge, when you feel you are in the gap between Serbia and Hungary. You have arrived, Subotica, Szabadka or Subotica - place of three languages ​​and numerous peoples. You've come to where there are not many stars in the sky at night because stars can't fill that huge space on sky. Existence of that huge space is reason why standing there on a sidewalk can be dangerous. Here and there you will come across cyclists and if you are not on the right track, the one for pedestrians, which is a little bit different from that for cyclists, at best you can scared or  or you will be looked at in a weird way or you will get, or cyclist will just mumble. In worst case, do not ask. Empiricism is the best way to find out.

The writer of these rows is doing his best to motivate you to return two century back and experience the secession that is the main culprit why in Subotica you have the feeling to observe and be observed at the same time. Perhaps this is the reason why young people leave from Subotica, and slowly ends the process of turning into City old people. They may be motivated by secession, but by the Viennese meaning independence or separation. Young people go to bigger cities, they are educated and remain there, settled and separated from the family. Those who stayed on this edge of Europe and the Balkans called Subotica, which you can find in Peder Park, are also influenced by the Vienna Secession. They are alternatives, young artists who have separated from the mainstream and trash which nowadays serve as art just as the Viennese (young) artists who were separated from social norms of the time before 120 years ago. The saying is the same: "Every time his art, the art of her freedom".

Gathered in Peder Park, young alternatives look across the street in one of the few bohemian cafes in the Balkans, where veteran artists gather. If you decide to go to the bohemian residence, Rade will be ready to keep you an hour of history class and meet you with his daughters and their world success. Whille you are learning the history you have to look on the photos on the walls.

Yeah, do not look for coffee with milk.

Not far from the bohemian residence is the palace of architect Ferenc Rajhla, yes,a palace.

Feel free to enter, do not be afraid of the aristocracy. Go to places, see the exhibition on the walls and be sure to get to know where Ferenc was eating and drinking, sleeping and working, wandering with his wife and lovers.

The most efficient period of Ferenc's life was in Subotica where he designed the most important building. One of them is the City Museum, which was moved from his palate. In the museum you can find Asia and Africa in small, for what we can thank Oskar Vojnić, world traveler, hunter, adventure, photographer, explorer and travelogue born in Subotica. The rest of the things explore by yourself, as you should explore Palić by yourself. Do not google it, explore it, on empiric way see what's located there in Subotica, and it's Ferenc's.

In the park next to the City Library, which is naturally designed by the same Ferenc, there is a park with the monument Danil Kiš.

Our story ends here, where he started his, because his story started where we ends ours story.

 "To be a observer and observe at the same time" - that is Subotica.



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